jan. 4/09Leaving Tucson we thought we would stop at the bank, the camping world store, and wallmart. Well, we found the first two no problemo, but then Wallmart was another story. We spent too long trying to find it and now we didn't have time to go to the Desert Museum as planned, because we want to be at the camping in Nogales on time which is before it gets dark. We've been arriving and making food in the dark when camping too often!So that was a bit disappointing but we look forward to crossing the border tomorrow. Major rainstorm on the way to Nogales! But no flash flooding which would maybe have been kind of interesting. We passed many adobe style little houses which is the main building style around here. The landscape is still sandy, more shrubbery now and grasses, red dirt. The rain stopped after about half an hour.Nogales is a very small town. The Mike and Terri Church book suggested staying the night before crossing the border at Mi Casa RV park. We would NOT recommend that! It is a trailer park with mostly full time residents, some run down trailers and some (3 or so) spots for large dieselpushers in the middle. The office was closed, no one in sight, and we skidaddled outta there fast. But where else to go? We couldn't go more south, the border was there. On the map it showed a Patagonia State Park 11 miles east. Well, worth a try. Turns out to be a real oasis! Except it is at an altitude of over 3000 feet which makes it kinda chilly - again - at night for camping! We just can't seem to get away from the cold! And, it was raining again!But we highly recommend this little campground by the lake. It is peaceful, only 3 others here in the non-hookup section, flush potties and all the hot showers you like! $15 a night, pretty good. We have been kinda surprised by the prices here in the U.S. Everything is comparable to home, nothing cheaper. Few places the gas was $1.45 per gallon, but U.S. dollar vs CAD doesn't really make it a 'deal'. Mostly the gas has been $1.80 average per gallon. We have picked up a little propane mantle lantern, since we have been working with candlelight. That was a good investment ($15), lots of light and no noise.
Monday morning we head over to Sanborn's for Mexican car insurance. The man assured us we would be safe the routes we are planning to take and places we want to see (we told him mostly main roads down the coast to Puerto Vallarta). We got 6 months worth' insurance as it was cheaper than doing otherwise. Membership was included and provided us with mapbooks etc., and a lawyer in case of accidents (well, a number to call).Then we were off to the gasstation to fill up, check fluids in the motor - all good - and off to the border.Without any warning we were across a little speedbump next to the U.S. borderstation and here we are : Bienvenudos a Mexico!!!
About 2 minutes later we passed through a toll booth, $3.50USD.Then about 10 minutes later we arrived at the customs office/banjercito where we got our tourist visas and vehicle permits. Some line-ups which looked short, 4 or 5 people, took about 1 1/2 hours. We received copies and copies galore, all stapled together, and a decall to put on the windshield of the Van. Now we can officially drive in Mexico.So we follow this toll highway all the way down to Hermosillo, pass 2 more tollbooths - they seem to be between 3.50 and 4.50 each time, USD - and find our way through the town. Hermosillo is a busy city and as long as you pay attention it's not too difficult to navigate through. we didn't take the bypass (couldn't find it) so just followed the signs south to Guaymas/San Carlos.The roads aren't lined or marked always, and the traffic lights are horizontal with only the far left light on, the next light is faded and the next two don't work. Oh sometimes they have an arrow on the far right light. The drivers are ferocious! You really have to pay attention. Not much room on either side.The roads are bumpy and narrow, without shoulders. No rest stops, peeing has to be done at a gasstation but you pay/tip the guy there and he provides you with toiletpaper. Then someone is busy cleaning your window right away so you tip him as well. We're talking 2 or 3 pesos each time, around 25 cents. Not much but we exchange big smiles and please and thank you's.We are waiting to see the ocean now...Oh yes we passed through our first army checkpoint, guys in camo with machineguns and heaps of sandbags, an armoured vehicle or two, and they didn't say anything just waved us on. We were not intimidated nor scared at all.We are not seeing many motorhomes or fifthwheels...good or bad? remains to be seen. We did get questions at the toll booths about the sticks we brought on the roof. They are the poles to keep our awning up, of course (we use rough treelimbs and a huge army-camo tarp). It looks a little weird perhaps to some people. We do still get "looks"...There are donkeys and cows on the side of the road sometimes. Many little chapels with statues and painting on the rocks of the Virgin Mary.
Well, finally around 5:30 we see the OCEAN!!!!! It's taken us 10 days of driving to find it, endless miles through desert landscapes, but here it is at San Carlos (sister city to Guaymas), a nice little secluded bay. We follow the book to a campground the authors say is their favorite, and it looks nice and clean and a very nice gentleman tells us he has room for us for $16 a night. We decide to drive a little ways up the road and check out the RV campground the book says "many people swear this is the nicest place in all of Mexico". It turns out to be a parkinglot, no landscaping, new building it looks like but with a parkinglot around it where a few big buses are parked. Nowhere nears the ocean, either. So, we go back to Totonaka RV park and ask if we can have that no-hookup site. Nice clean washrooms and showers, big laundry, across the road from the beach! We like it, although it is not a state park of course. But there are some nice trees and shrubbery separating us from the neighbours. We walked to a restaurant where we ate fresh seafood (Megan had her shrimp!) under a palapa listening to and watching the ocean (no windows), with a clear sky above with many stars and half a moon. The temperature is a balmy 20 degrees celcius at 7 pm. The breeze feels a little cooler but still, we are not freezing like last night; or the last umpteen nights before that!Now, it REALLY feels like we are on holidays. It smells like ocean, roasted garlic and onion, and barbeque, and there's chirping in the air from little creatures. We are relaxing.....we're in Mexico!